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White Girl Speaking Arabic
Andrea Calabretta gets lost in the linguistic maze of Tunisia. Continue Reading White Girl Speaking Arabic
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Alone in Paris
“You are so close you have to make it and you hope your watch is a few minutes fast. But as you round the bend of another museum you look ...
Burning Mountain Temple
“The fifth or sixth time I sprawl in the dirt the panic alarms are flashing extra bright. When my stomach stops looking for something to throw up I can raise ...
Páramo
“Time passes slowly in the Paramó. Our warm blood palpates through the mountains now, amid the cold, continuous rain.” Geoff Bendeck finds emptiness and loss in Ecuador. Continue ...
Maha Kumbh Mela: The Largest Gathering on Earth
Photographer Kris Hariharan’s beautiful images of the largest peaceful human gathering on earth, the religious ritual of immersion in the Ganges. Continue Reading Maha Kumbh Mela: The Largest ...
God Rides the Bus in Sudan
The truck veers suddenly to the left and screeches to a halt. The driver’s door opens and he emerges with a shotgun in one hand, hitching his robes up with ...
Tea and Tear Gas in Turkey
In her column Slow Travel Stories, Claire Harris witnesses the police using tear gas on demonstrators in Taksim Square, Istanbul. Continue Reading Tea and Tear Gas in Turkey
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A Guide to Literary Berlin
Berlin resident and literary advisor Nerys Hudson shares a book-lover’s highlights of a city with one of Europe’s most complex and rich literary heritages, from walking tours and literature houses ...
The True Meaning of Children’s Day
It was really Noel Rosa who convinced me to go. If I’m trying to decide where to go out and Dama do Cabaré comes up in my playlist, I head obediently ...
A Thirty-year-old Kiss
I started as a research assistant at the Instituto Moreira Salles back in June. I’d been thinking about it ever since they told me it was there, hidden away in ...
Searching for Carmen
A concrete building, too small to be a UFO but too big to be a public bathroom, in a dusty, abandoned playground between two highways. Unfortunately, I was in the ...
Stuck in Traffic
Stuck na hora do rush: Centro, 18:30. Bus crawling down Rio Branco so slowly you begin to suspect that the driver has just let his foot off the brake and ...
Small Talk
One thing that continues to startle me (and when I say “startle”, I mean it caused me to delicately raise an eyebrow) is the Brazilian ease of conversation. That’s not ...
The Greek and the Fairy
I’ll just fess up now. On Friday, that was me. If you happened to be an upright carioca commuter on your way to Glória that morning, you were faced with ...
Why Are We Pushing Again?
Carnaval is no joke if you’re a lone girl. At first I dodged the grabbing and the “Oi, gatas” and everything else, but things got worse as the bloco went ...
Carnaval with Training Wheels
I may end up loving Carnaval in spite of itself, and for perhaps predictable reasons. This was, I can say with confidence, the first time I had heard a Carmen ...