A concrete building, too small to be a UFO but too big to be a public bathroom, in a dusty, abandoned playground between two highways. Unfortunately, I was in the ...
Stuck na hora do rush: Centro, 18:30. Bus crawling down Rio Branco so slowly you begin to suspect that the driver has just let his foot off the brake and ...
One thing that continues to startle me (and when I say “startle”, I mean it caused me to delicately raise an eyebrow) is the Brazilian ease of conversation. That’s not ...
I’ll just fess up now. On Friday, that was me. If you happened to be an upright carioca commuter on your way to Glória that morning, you were faced with ...
Carnaval is no joke if you’re a lone girl. At first I dodged the grabbing and the “Oi, gatas” and everything else, but things got worse as the bloco went ...
I may end up loving Carnaval in spite of itself, and for perhaps predictable reasons. This was, I can say with confidence, the first time I had heard a Carmen ...
In Rio the velvety air felt easy and comfortable. We slept on Copacabana beach and our sandals were stolen by one of the bony, dark-skinned group in rags who had ...
